For too long I have been away from the sea. For a while longer I will remain this way.
Yet, soon I will return to the ocean I love.
A new Romance begins, January 2011.

She presented herself unannounced, and took me by surprise.
I had been waiting for her, and still she managed to bewilder me.
The truth is I was desperate for her.
I had been waiting for this moment for months; long, hot, summer months drenched in the type of haze and humidity caused by longing and desire. I had been longing for and desiring her for so long I struggled to maintain composure before her now.
We had a history. I first tasted her when I was barely 18 and have been helpless since. There had been affairs in exotic locales across the globe. Staying out late in her arms and sneaking out early to see her whenever she called had left victims. Commitment to family, education, work and lovers all faltered under her undeniable spell.
I would do anything to have her, a fact she knew all too well, mercilessly taking me for all my worth.
She was dangerous. She had the power to erode landscapes, alter climates, float dreams and destroy them with the depth of her passion.
Her mood was unpredictable. There were moments when she became approachable, and these were the moments I lived for. Even when she would have me, there was no telling how long it would last. Our affairs had lasted minutes, hours, weeks and the longest, a month. Each one was drastically different and according to her insatiable temperament. History should have taught me lessons, but she always left me craving her caress once more. This time was no different.
I was standing before her on the beach. The sun had set. Anyone who was around had gone home to supper with loved ones or loneliness without. There was nobody but us.
In the dusk, we embraced. I tasted the salt on her; immersed myself in her touch; dove beneath and inside of her; slipping away on waves of lust and love; trying hard to keep up, keep pace, keep her satisfied.
The stars came out. It was twilight.
I could not stay with her, she would not have it. I would never survive in her world, a vicious truth she never let me forget.
I returned home both exhausted and exhilarated. I lay awake dreaming of her. I did not sleep.
At the first sign of light, I returned to the beach where we had been together the night before. Sure enough, she was waiting for me.
It is my sole belief that no man could ever conquer her. She takes and takes and takes. If I am lucky, or perhaps unlucky depending on the point of view, she gives just enough to make me forget all her taking, and she takes some more.
For two more days I was rendered useless to anyone but her. I would say goodbye to her in the morning and drift hopelessly in thoughts of her until I saw her again that evening.
For two more days our bodies collided in lovers’ bouts. My muscles ached; my flesh became raw, and skin chafed. I gave her everything stored up inside of me and more. I was spent.
There was something lovely about feeling broken by her. I wanted to give her everything. I wanted her to break me. I was spent. My body was done. I could take no more. I had nothing left to give. I was no longer any use.
She had her way, as she always has and always will. And for the time being, I said goodbye to her -- my lover, the Sea.
000
ABNT20 KNHC 202331
TWOAT
TROPICAL WEATHER OUTLOOK
NWS TPC/NATIONAL HURRICANE CENTER MIAMI FL
800 PM EDT TUE JUL 20 2010
FOR THE NORTH ATLANTIC...CARIBBEAN SEA AND THE GULF OF MEXICO...
A VIGOROUS TROPICAL WAVE...LOCATED NEAR THE EASTERN DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC...IS PRODUCING A LARGE AREA OF SHOWERS AND THUNDERSTORMS
EXTENDING FROM THE NORTHERN LEEWARD ISLANDS WESTWARD TO HISPANIOLA.
SURFACE OBSERVATIONS INDICATE THAT A CLOSED CIRCULATION HAS NOT YET
FORMED. HOWEVER...ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED TO BE
FAVORABLE FOR TROPICAL CYCLONE FORMATION AS THE SYSTEM MOVES
WEST-NORTHWESTWARD AT ABOUT 10 MPH DURING THE NEXT DAY OR SO.
THERE IS A HIGH CHANCE... 60 PERCENT...OF THIS SYSTEM BECOMING A
TROPICAL DEPRESSION OR A TROPICAL STORM DURING THE NEXT 48 HOURS.
REGARDLESS OF DEVELOPMENT...LOCALLY HEAVY RAINFALL AND GUSTY WINDS
WILL LIKELY AFFECT THE VIRGIN ISLANDS...PUERTO RICO...THE DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC... HAITI...EASTERN CUBA...THE TURKS AND CAICOS ISLANDS...
AND THE BAHAMAS DURING THE NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS. THE HEAVY RAINS
COULD CAUSE LIFE-THREATENING FLASH FLOODS AND MUD SLIDES IN
MOUNTAINOUS AREAS.
ELSEWHERE...TROPICAL CYCLONE FORMATION IS NOT EXPECTED DURING THE
NEXT 48 HOURS.
It is summertime in Australia. It is not in Canada. That was my first thought as an ice cold, 12 foot wave exploded a few metres in front of me. I ditched my board, and fighting against all the rubber enrobing my body, swam deep in the water and waited for impact. BOOM! Pins and needles stabbed the soles of me feet. My heart beat so fast it actually hurt my rib cage. I suddenly had to urinate, defecate and vomit; all at the same time. Like I mentioned, my brain was talking to me, but it wasn’t being very helpful. “You’re unfit. You’re out of your league. You shouldn’t have eaten that breakfast sandwich. You definitely shouldn’t have smoked those two joints. Two joints and a breakfast sandwich?! It’s not even sunrise! How can you describe this in onomatopoeia? Nobody likes you.” Thoughts like these are the consequence of surfing in water temps that wiped out the Titanic passengers. Despite those temperatures, despite my spin through a coldwater rinse cycle, despite those negative thoughts, despite the ice cold water flushing into my five millimeter thick wetsuit, I eventually surfaced with a smile. The cold had tightened my lungs and it felt like I was breathing through a garden hose, but the rewards associated with surfing Nova Scotia in the heart of winter far surpassed the discomfort. What’s more, I was not alone, which was a good thing. A few feet from me, my friends scowled as they fought through their own ice-cream head ache, we caught each other’s eyes and couldn’t help laughing as we noticed four more 12-footers headed straight towards our battered selves. It’s a Tuesday morning in January, and we wouldn’t spend it any other way.
Above: An icy lip about to bring chills to anyone who stands in its path. Photo: Author’s own. Below: Not your typical beach scene. A frigid Tuesday morning complete with 5 metre wave sets. Andrew Hunter scopes the line-up. Photo: Matt Taggart
“Our surfing forebears were passionately devoted to sliding naked into a warm ocean and riding waves. But as the centuries passed and surfing spread to less accommodating climes, new generations of wave riders have nurtured that fire, carrying it forward to every ocean regardless of the water temperature, banking the coals, fanning the flames, keeping it hot when the world gets cold.” –Sam George, The Surfer’s Journal. Vol 17, No 5, Oct-Nov 08
Perhaps you are not convinced about this whole winter surfing phenomenon. To many, surfing is a foreign concept. Factor in the cold North Atlantic, hostile low pressure systems sweeping up the harsh coast of Nova Scotia, and the fickle mood in which they harmonize, which shows little consideration for schedules or work load, and you have something that very few people can relate to. Yet, there are a growing few, including myself, who can no longer imagine life in this cold winter climate without waves. Andrew Hunter, or Drew, age 29, a Halifax-based musician, is one such person. He was right alongside me when the North Atlantic unleashed itself on us. He fell in love with surfing while living on the ancestral shores of Maui at age 18. Since then he’s returned to more familiar waters, and surfs just as much on the snow covered cobblestone points of Nova Scotia as he did on turquoise coral reefs of Hawaii. On that Tuesday we all rolled together in his van. His approach to winter surfing is simple:
“Get in, get waves, get out, get in the van, get heat blasting, get music blasting, get down the coast, get high, stay high, and repeat.”
As a result we almost crashed twice, had great music selection, and could no longer remember whose turn it was to roll the next joint. Cory Barrington is another diehard winter surfer. Cory, also aged 29, hails from New Waterford, Cape Breton, and caught his first wave in the ocean near his family home. Now, Cory is in the process of completing his second degree in physical geography. That is why Cory was navigating. We got lost five or more times. His approach to winter surfing?
“Save up all the piss you can. When you can’t take the cold anymore, let it all go. It’s just like a warm bath.”
As Cory changed out of his wetsuit after our first session, That Smell by Lynyrd Skynyrd blasted on the van’s stereo.
Above: From left to right, Cory, author, and Drew, somewhat lost. Photo: Matt Taggart
“The surfing life is nothing if not a devotion. And true devotion is unconditional” – Sam George, The Surfer’s Journal, Vol 17, No 5, Oct-Nov 08
After a brisk morning session, which included some of the biggest waves surfed all winter, we could slow things down a touch. The surf signaled the end to a serious drought of waves that had affected us all deeply. Drew was ahead of his work and recordings. Cory had yet to miss a class. I had compensated for my addiction to waves by substituting them with heavy substance abuse. Hell, I had even taken up squash. Finally, the waves had arrived. Cory blew off some important classes. Drew cancelled meetings and snuck out before his wife woke up. We got a quick fix that Tuesday morning, and now we could invest in some discovery. We knew there was a wave breaking somewhere that no one else would be surfing. When we found the road to the point unplowed, we knew it could be the place. When a snowplow showed up and escorted us right to the sea, we knew we were the first to find the wave that waited on the snowy cliffs. More importantly, we knew that no class, no meeting, no amount of grief from loved ones, and no substance could rival the feeling of joy that comes with discovery and surf in Nova Scotia.
Below: The road to discovery. All Photos: Matt Taggart